Weight (gsm), and what it does not tell you
Grams per square metre is the mass of the fabric. It predicts how much cotton is in the shirt, which predicts cost and drape. It does not predict quality: a well-made 200gsm jersey beats a badly made 230gsm every time.
We hold 23 styles from 160 to 350gsm. That range exists because the same buyer needs different weights for a summer giveaway and a winter drop.
Yarn: carded, combed, and the spinning method
Carded keeps short fibres; combed removes them, which makes the yarn smoother and stronger at a cost of 8–15%. Ring-spun and open-end describe how the yarn is twisted — ring-spun is finer and smoother, open-end is faster and coarser.
These are two separate axes, which is why "combed cotton" on a label can mean several different garments.
- Carded + open-end: the cheapest combination, coarser hand.
- Combed + ring-spun: the premium combination, smoother surface, better for fine print.
- Carded + ring-spun: a common mid-point.
Knit and construction
Single jersey is the default t-shirt knit. Interlock is denser, smoother both sides and holds shape better. Pique is textured and is the classic polo knit.
Construction covers tubular versus side-seamed bodies, single versus double-needle hems, and whether the neck is taped. Taping costs cents and is the single most effective thing you can do for collar life.
Finish, and the numbers buyers over-read
Garment dyeing, enzyme washing, snow washing and bleach fading all change hand feel and shrinkage, and all add cost. They also make exact colour matching on reorder impossible — which is a feature of the look and a problem for uniforms.
The number buyers over-read is yarn count, usually quoted as "20s" or "30s". Finer counts feel smoother and cost more, but they do not by themselves indicate a better shirt. Weight, construction and finish matter more.