The bands, and what they are for
160–170gsm: promotional and giveaway. Cheap, cool, ships light. White at this weight is visibly sheer.
180–200gsm: the promotional sweet spot. Holds a screen print, still cheap, still cool.
200–230gsm: retail standard. Heavy enough to feel like a garment, light enough to wear in summer.
240–280gsm: premium and streetwear. Holds a boxy shape, prints opaquely, warmer.
300–350gsm: statement pieces and winter drops. Close to a light sweatshirt in hand.
What changes as you go up
Price rises roughly with weight, because fabric is half the cost. Shrinkage rises too — heavier knits relax more, typically 4–6% in length on the first wash.
Hand feel thickens, drape reduces, and drying time lengthens. Above 300gsm a shirt starts to feel wrong in a hot climate, which is a market constraint before it is an aesthetic one.
- 180 → 230gsm: the biggest single jump in perceived quality.
- 230 → 300gsm: the biggest jump in price per kilo of shirt.
- Above 300gsm: check the market before the weight.
The white problem
Weight matters most in white. Below 160gsm white jersey shows what is behind it under daylight; at 180gsm it is acceptable but not opaque; from 200gsm upward it reads as a proper shirt.
This is why a "cheap white tee" is such a difficult brief: the cheapest credible white shirt is heavier than the cheapest credible black one.
How to choose in one question
Ask what the shirt is for. Giveaway or summer event: 180gsm. Retail basics: 200–230gsm. Streetwear or premium: 240–300gsm. Winter drop or statement piece: 300gsm+.
Then wash a sample and measure again. Weight predicts the first impression; shrinkage and cure decide whether the shirt is still good in month three.